The Visits of Sir Charles Alfred Bell and the Treaty of Punakha, 1910

 

Before his retirement in 1908, Claude had advised British India to have a closer relationship with Bhutan. He had also urged the Government to increase the annual subsidy and assist in developments to thwart possible Chinese interventions in Bhutan. Claude even proposed to draw a new treaty with Bhutan. The provision of the treaty of Sinchula (1865) only allows the British interference in Bhutan’s dispute with Sikkim and Cooch Bihar, not with any other states. After Charles Bell succeeded Claude as a political officer in April 1908, he was tasked with advising the government on foreign affairs. Fearing the growing influence of the Chinese, Bell proposed a new treaty with Bhutan and urged British India to increase the annual subsidy. Towards the end of 1909, Bell’s proposal came through and a draft treaty was approved. Bell was permitted to increase the annual subsidy if Bhutan agrees to the terms.

Charles Bell set off from Gangtok in January 1910 with captain Robert Kennedy (a medical officer). Bell had a preliminary meeting with Kazi Ugyen Dorji at Darjeeling and he had already taken the draft treaty in both Tibetan and English to His Majesty. After weeks of journey, Bell reached Punakha and was received by His Majesty the king and the council to the camp. At first, Bell observed the council members were reluctant and found it difficult to gain consent. After assuring the non-interference in internal affairs by the British government, Bell gained the council’s consent. The four copies of the treaty, two copies each in English and Bhutanese were produced. On 8 January 1910, the corresponding 27^th day of the 11^th month of the Earth-Bird (Sa-ja) year after having agreed to the terms from both parties, a new treaty was signed at the marquee in the compound of Bell’s camp, Punakha. The treaty of Punakha saw the revision of Article IV and Article VIII of the Treaty of Sinchula which was signed in1865.

·       Article IV was revised as: "The British Government has increased the annual subsidy to the Government of Bhutan from Rs. 50,000 to Rs. 1,00,000 with effect from the 10th January 1910."

 

·       Article VIII was revised as: “The British Government undertakes to exercise no interference in the internal administration of Bhutan. On its part, the Bhutanese Government agrees to be guided by the advice of the British Government regarding external relations. In the event of disputes with or causes of complaint against the Maharajas of Sikkim and Cooch Behar, such matters will be referred for arbitration to the British Government which will settle them in such manner as justice may require and insist upon the observance of its decisions by the Maharajas named."

Charles wrote that the signing and sealing of the treaty were completed at one o’clock in the afternoon. The treaty was first signed with a large square Zhabdrung’s seal. Then, the seal of His Majesty was affixed. The treaty also has the councils’ members’ seals, including the seal of Zhung Dronyer, Paro Penlop, Dagana Penlop, Thimphu Dzongpoen, Wangdiphodrang Dzongpon, Punakha Dzongpoen, and Deb Zimpon. Upon Bell’s insistence, the seal of the monk’s body representative was also affixed.

During the signing of the Treaty of Punakha on 8 January 1910

 From left: Deb Zimpon Kunzang Tsering, Representative from a monk body, Paro Poenlop Dawa Penjor, His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley, Punakha Dzongpoen Palden Wangchuk, and Ugyen Dorji (standing) (Photo: From the collections of Sir Charles Bell, National Museum Liverpool)

After the treaty, Bell wrote, “It is well that we have this treaty; good for us and good for Bhutan, whose economic interests, as time goes on, will be seen more and more in the direction of India.” During their several weeks in Bhutan, Bell could cement the friendship with His Majesty like his predecessor Claude. Bell wrote, “His Highness is not only a very able ruler but is also universally respected both by his subjects and his foreign friends. Though he has only twice in his life quitted his hermit land, he has all the broadminded tolerance of one who has lived a composition life.”

On his departure from Bhutan, His Majesty presented Bell with one of the five gold medals that had been struck to commemorate the ascension to the throne in 1907. Like his predecessors, Charles described the immense hospitality received in Bhutan. On his journey back, Charles observed that the reconstruction of Paro Dzong has been almost completed. The Paro Dzong was lost to fire in 1907 and it was recorded in the journal of John Claude White.

Although the information in Bell’s diary does not have any significant impacts, his visit to Bhutan and signing of the treaty led to the revision of subsidy which has been long overdue. Significantly, the treaty also secured protection from the British government against external threats. There is no official record of Charles Bell’s visit to Bhutan after his first visit.

 

Bibliography

Bell, C. A. (1992). Tibet past and present. New Delhi: Asian Educational Services

Collister, P. (1987). Bhutan and the British. London: Serindia Publications.

Sigh, N. (1972).  Bhutan: A kingdom in the Himalayas. New Delhi: Thompson Press Limited.

The Third Expedition of John Claude White to Bhutan, 1907

 

The visits of John Claude White to Bhutan in 1907 was his last expedition and it was at the invitation of His Majesty the First King. Claude was also a representative of British India during the enthronement ceremony of Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary monarch on 17 December 1907. Claude left Gangtok on 25 November 1907. He was accompanied by Major Rennick, Mr Wilton, Mr William Lachlan Campbell[1], and Captain Henry Hyslop. Ahead of his journey, Claude had sent Campbell to Chumbi for necessary preparations. Reaching Chumbi, Claude caught a cold and was forced to halt for a few more days. On December 2, Claude and his party departed from Chumbi. After two days of a harsh journey, Claude reached Phari on 4 December 1907. After crossing Temo-La[2] (16,500 feet), Bhutan was in the sight and shortly received by Drugyel Dzongpoen. The Dzongpon also bore the message of His Majesty welcoming Claude and his party.

Descending the Temo-La and crossing Pachhu, Claude and his party reached Paro Drugyel Dzong on 6 December. While halting for two days at Drugyel Dzong, Claude and his party visited Paro Taktsang. Captain Hyslop who accompanied Claude wrote about Taktshang, “ The main Gompa perched absolutely in the middle of a sheer cliff with a drop of at least 1500 feet of bare rock. The monastery consisted of some three series of buildings each two stories high. The middle and main building was apparently the chief temple, for it was surmounted by a very beautiful glided roof centre piece……. A foot misplaced  or a slip would have sent one down some thousand feet.” On the way to Paro Dzong on 9 December, Claude was welcomed by Kazi Ugyen Dorji and representatives of the Paro Penlop. Arriving at Paro, they were received by Paro Penlop Dawa Penjor and his fifteen-year-old son.

When Claude arrived at Paro Dzong, the majestic Paro Dzong he described in 1705 had been reduced to ashes. Claude saw only a heap of blackened ruins and few standing walls. The reconstruction works had already begun and timbers were collected. They were told that the whole of the country was contributing towards the reconstruction and it would take four years to complete. After bidding farewell to Paro Penlop, Claude departed for Thimphu on 11 December and halted a night at the place Chalimaphe. Unfortunately, Claude was attacked by fever and halted for a few days while Captain Hyslop, Campbell and a few followers visited Trashichodzong. Hyslop explicitly described the Dzong and while he was taken inside the Dzong, he was amazed to see the Bhutanese-made refiles that were an exact copy of the refiles that were gifted by their predecessors. More surprisingly, even the name of the gun manufacturer (Walter Locke and Co.) was exactly engraved though Hyslop found it difficult to read. Hyslop was amused on seeing that the photos of Claude and other visitors hung inside the Dzong.

Paro Taktshang (Photo: J.C. White private collection, 1907)

On 14 December, Claude and the party left for Punakha and visited Simtokha Dzong on the way. After crossing Dokyong-La (Present day Dochu-La?), Claude halted a night at the bottom of the hill in the paddy fields (probably the present-day Thinleygang). On the following day’s journey, Claude was received by Gasa Dzongpoen before reaching Punakha. Claude and the party reached Punakha Dzong on 15 December 1907; and were escorted in a full Bhutanese traditional ceremonial procession. Claude was grandly welcomed by His Majesty and his council and Claude observed that the camp was beautifully and comfortably laid. The edges of the paths toward the camp were decorated with pot plants and red cloth was laid down which Claude believed were evident traces of the impressions the Bhutanese had brought from their visit to Calcutta in 1906[3].

John Claude White approaching Punakha Dzong in a ceremonial procession on 15^th December 1907 (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The next day was spent on preparation for the enthronement of His Majesty the king. Claude visited the main hall for the ceremony along with Hyslop. They observed the entrance toward the Dzong had become quite buzzing with cloth merchants and pan-sellers (areca nuts and betel leaf sellers)  in the progress of setting stalls. On the day of enthronement on 17 December 1907, Claude and his team left the camp for the hall at 10 AM and were welcomed by His Majesty and the council. His Majesty was seated in the centre and wore a robe of blue silk brocade and the scarlet shawl. His Majesty had also worn the star and ribbon of the K.C.I.E that was presented in 1905.

Claude was offered a seat on the right of His Majesty and the Jekhenpo on the left. Hyslop noticed that Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley was the master of ceremonies. The ceremony began with the presentation of gifts from the government of India followed by Jekhenpo, Penlops, Dzongpons and officials presenting their gifts to His Majesty. The moment was followed by presenting scarves by His Majesty and the council to the delegates of the mission. The ceremony then proceeded with the tea-drinking ceremony (probably the Zhukdrel Pheunsum Tshogpa).  Hyslop interestingly wrote, “ Tea and other drinks were handed round, first some yam soup, sweet brown stuff that cocoa, then butter tea, and then chang. As small quantities of each of these were poured into the cup you can imagine the awful mixture, fortunately, we were not expected to drink it all up.”

After the tea ceremony, the head clerk of the council rose and read the oath of allegiance to the new Druk Gyalpo. The Jekhenpo took the seal of Deb Raja (seal of Zhabdrung Rinpoche) which measures about five inches square out of the casket and painted it with vermillion and finally the impression was taken. The reigning Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngodup was absent during the ceremony. One after another, the sealing of the ‘Genja’ went on for an hour. All other’s impressions were in black ink. While sealing was in the process, White and Hyslop took some photographs of the proceeding. After the last official sealed the genja, Claude gave a short speech and the conclusion of the speech read, “I wish you long life and prosperity, and may your descendants be equally worthy to succeed you for many generations to come.” Claude congratulated His Majesty and a scarf was offered. Claude observed that two copies of duly sealed genja were produced. The speech was translated into Tibetan and handed over to His Majesty. With the closing of the ceremony, Ugyen Wangchuck officially became the first Druk Gyalpo of Bhutan. Towards the evening, Claude gave a dinner to His Majesty and the councillors to honour the ascension to the golden throne.

During the enthronement of Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary king on 17^th December 1907 at Punakha Dzong (From left: John Claude White, Kazi Ugyen Dorji, King Ugyen Wangchuck, Jekhenpo Jampel Shenyen. (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The sealing of contractual agreement ‘Genja’ by officials on 17 December 1907, inside Punakha Dzong (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The contract agreement (Genja) adopted during the enthronement of king Ugyen Wangchuck, on 17 December 1907 ( Source: A copy reproduced from John Claude White’s Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier, 1909)

 In the past years, an annual subsidy of Rs. 50,000 was paid at Buxa, in the duars. In 1907, along with the mission brought the annual subsidy and handed over His Majesty the Druk Gyalpo on 19 December. In return, His Majesty offered a small offering of salt and cloths to the mission. At the request of His Majesty, Claude attended the first council meeting after being enthroned as the Druk Gyalpo. Claude discussed and advised His Majesty on the various aspect of the administration. 

Presenting the annual subsidy of Rs. 50,000 on 19 December 1907 at Punakha (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The group photo was taken at Punakha, on 19 December 1907

Standing from left: Captain Henry Hyslop, Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Punakha Dzongpoen Palden Wangchuk, Major F.W. Rennick, Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley, Deb Zimpoen Kunzang Tsering.

Seated from left: Captain W.L. Campbell. John Claude White, King Ugyen Wangchuck, and Paro Poenlop Dawa Penjor (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The mission halted for a few more days at Punakha and Claude exchanged numerous visits with officials. The mission visited Wangdiphodrang Dzong and while passing through Norbugang village, Hyslop wrote, “ This is quite the most picturesque village I have seen, the houses are built on a tiny scale and are surrounded with orange, persimmon, and other fruit trees; each little domain is most carefully fenced and the whole is kept extremely clean and tidy.”

His Majesty the first king with Penlops, Dzongpons, officers and soldiers  (Photo taken at Punakha on 25 December 1907, Christmas day. Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

 The mission celebrated Christmas day on 25 December at Punakha. Luckily the post came in time before breakfast. Later, His Majesty, the council and the people came to be photographed. Hyslop described that the group photo was the most picturesque though the colour effect does not show in the photo. Later in the afternoon, the mission distributed the four anna bit (the British coin) to each person and thousands of people gathered from the neighbourhood. In the evening, the dinner party was given and a lantern show was also displayed. With the end of the celebration of Christmas day, Campbell bade farewell and left for Chumbi on 26 December and Hyslop and Rennick left Punakha via the Buxa route on 27 December 1907. At the request of His Majesty, Claude stayed at Punakha for several days. Claude discussed with His Majesty and the council on various projects and schemes for the development of the country. Considering the lack of funds was the stumbling block toward the development, Claude saw the cultivation of tea on the southern foothills, the sale of timbers and the mining concessions are possible means to generate considerable revenue.

After several days, Claude left Punakha in January 1907. On the day of departure, his Majesty accompanied Claude four miles from Punakha where they took sad farewells to each other with heavy hearts. His Majesty was distressed as Claude’s retirement was closing in and the moment might be the last time to meet. Claude wrote, “ I have never met a native I liked and respected more than I do Sir Ugyen. He is upright, honest, open, and straightforward, and I wish it had been possible to remain in India till he had at least commenced some of his schemes of reform.” Accompanied by Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Claude arrived at Jaigon after travelling via Paro and Haa. From Jaigon, Claude also inspected the southern foothills along the border to see the feasibility of tea cultivation and explore copper deposits in hopes to help Bhutan in generating revenue. From Jaigon, Claude travelled to Gangtok. Claude concluded his third expedition to Bhutan with sincere prayers and wishes, “ This ended my last official visit to Bhutan; but I hope it will not be my last visit, as I look forward to meeting Sir Ugyen and his sister again, as well as all Bhutan official, and to revisiting the country in which I have spent so many pleasant months.”

Claude played a pivotal role in identifying His Majesty as the first Druk Galpo and strengthening the Anglo-Bhutan friendship. John Claude White became the first Britisher to become a close friend with His Majesty the first king, the country and its people. Claude earnestly wishes to assist Bhutan’s development although fund support from the British government was not forthcoming. Claude retired from the service shortly after his return to India in 1908 and left for England. John Claude White passed away in 1918.

 

Bibliography

Aris, M. (1994). The raven crown: the origins of Buddhist monarchy in Bhutan. Chicago: Serindia Publications.

Collister, P. (1987). Bhutan and the British. London: Serindia Publications

Hyslop, H. (1908). Extracts from my diary, written while accompanying the British Mission to Bhutan 1907-08. Accessed from http://pahar.in/pahar/1908-bhutan-1907-08-extracts-from-diary-while-accompanying-british-mision-to-bhutan-by-hyslop-s-pdf/.

 

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] William Lachlan Campbell was an assistant political officer then and accompanied Claude’s mission to Bhutan in 1907. Later, Campbell briefly became the British Political Officer in Sikkim from 1918-19.

[2] The boundary between Bhutan and Tibet

[3] His Majesty the First King visited Calcutta in 1906 to meet the Prince of Wales and Viceroy.  His Majesty made a second-time visit to India in 1911.

The Second Expedition of John Claude White to Eastern Bhutan and Southern Tibet, 1906

 

John Claude White’s long-time dream of exploring eastern Bhutan and a neighbouring portion of Tibet materialized in 1906. On 13 May 1906, Claude left Gangtok and embarked on a long journey to eastern Bhutan. He was accompanied by the state engineer, Mr Dover. He had also brought along with him the vaccinator after receiving the news of the smallpox outbreak in Bhutan. Claude travelled to Gauhati via Siliguri and Dhubri. After halting briefly in Gauhati for preparation, Claude marched toward the hills of Bhutan. After arranging five elephants and a few mules, Claude marched toward Dewathang in thunderstorms and downpours. Claude and his party finally reached Dewathang after encountering immeasurable encumbrances.

Claude halted for a few days at Dewathang, wanting more mules which he expected from Trongsa. On one of the nights, Claude lost one of his mules to the tiger. Since the additional mules were not forthcoming, Claude continued the journey from Dewathang. Claude passed through Rading and reached Chungkhar (6475 feet), a village in Pemagatshel. On the way, Claude passed Yongla Goenpa though he did not visit it. He was welcomed by officials from Trongsa who were dispatched by king Ugyen Wangchuck. Days later at Chungkhar, Claude received additional mules sent from Trongsa. Claude learnt that delay was caused by the destruction of bridges en route to Dewathang on account of an outbreak of smallpox. It was then the Bhutanese primitive way of containing the epidemic that break the chain of communication among the villages.

Bhutanese houses, probably at Dewathang (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

At Chungkhar, the vaccinator whom Claude brought along had vaccinated more than a hundred people in their camp. Claude observed people willingly came forward for the vaccination. Claude also observed a few young boys smoking cigarettes. From Chungkhar, Claude crossed Demrichhu and reached Denchung where Trashigang Dzongpoen welcomed him. After spending a night at Denchung, Claude resumed his journey towards Trashigang. On the way, Claude passed by the sight of the Barshong iron mine which was situated in a fine valley and he had a pinch of remorse for discovering it late. After crossing Yuto La (8300 feet), Claude rode the way through oak and rhododendron woods. From Rongthung, Claude’s journey to Trashigang Dzong was in the hot sun and he described that the only shade found was behind the chortens. At Trashigang Dzong, Claude was accommodated in Dzongpon’s room. On Trashigang Dzong, Claude wrote “The Dzong at Trashigang is particularly well situated on a ridge between two rivers, Drangmechhu and the Gamrichhu, and is constructed after the Bhutanese fashion, with courtyards and citadels. It has a fine temple, with an unusually large pair of tusks supporting the altar, and fittings in excellent metalwork.” 

While halting for a day at Trashigang, his vaccinator had vaccinated over two hundred people and people were pleased with the service. Claude’s initial plan to travel to Tibet via Trashiyangtse through Tawang was prohibited by the government of India. He was obliged to travel from Lhuentse to Tibet via Singye Dzong. Descending from the Dzong, Claude crossed the iron suspension bridge and proceeded to Trashiyangtse on the road which wound along the hillside. Claude reached present-day Gomphu Kora and he gave an interesting description, “Here there is a very curious little temple, with a prayer wall completely surrounding a large stone, which has a curious water-worn hole through its centre. It is considered extremely holy, and to crawl into the small hole and out at the other side is an act of merit.”

 A little further, Claude crossed a wooden cantilever bridge over the Kholongchhu and climbed a steep ridge. The team halted a night at a place called Serpang (6450 feet). At the camp of Serpang, many villagers were vaccinated and attended to various minor diseases. Marching from Serpang, Claude reached present-day old Trasiyangtse Dzong (5900 feet). Claude wrote, “ The Dzong of Trashiyangtse is situated on a sharp spur between the Kholongchhu and Dongdi rivers, with a very pretty view looking up the valley. In the river, with its beautiful pools and number of fish, there ought to be some good fishing.” While halting at Trashiyangtse, Claude visited ‘Chorten Kora’ and described it as a fine specimen which is partly built on the lines of big Chorten at Kathmandu. Claude observed that there were full-swing ploughing and sowing near the Chorten.

After departing from Trashiyangtse, Claude first halted at a place called Wangtung (10,000 feet). With great difficulty, Claude crossed Dhongla pass in rain and descended to the Kurichhu. After travelling some distance along the left bank of Kurichhu, Claude ascended the hills leading up to the present-day Nyalamdhung. From Nyalamdhung, Claude wrote that he had a good view of Lhuentse Dzong and he later learnt the Dzongpon of Lhuentse was disappointed as Claude did not visit the Dzong. Reaching Pangkhar village, Claude lodged in the Wangdiphodrang Dronyer’s house. From Pangkhar, Claude crossed Yela and descended to Khomachhu. Climbing up the hills, Claude reached a present-day Tsikang and camped in rain. Claude attempted to reach Singye Dzong from Tsikang in a single day but could not make it. Claude camped at a place called Tusum Mani (10,900 feet). After a beautiful ride from Tusum Mani, Claude reached Singye Dzong on 8 June 1906 after almost a month on the road. Claude wrote about Singye Dzong, “A small fort, hardly worthy of the name, but well situated on a large flat, with fine snow views all around.” Without halting at Singye Dzong, Claude proceeded and camped at the base of Kang La. After ascending the Kang La, Claude halted a night at Metsephu (15,300 feet). The next day, Claude crossed Bod La (16,290 feet), the boundary between Tibet and Bhutan.

Porters resting at the base of Bod La  (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Descending the Tibetan side of Bod La, Claude was delighted to see the waiting coolies and yaks led by the representative from Lhakhang Dzong and the head of the nearby village.  Claude then rode on the yak which he found to be sure-footed. After a day, on 11 June 1906, Claude arrived at Lhakhang Dzong and was heartily welcomed by His Majesty the king Ugyen Wangchuck. The duo had a lengthy discussion on various subjects. Claude was greatly impressed by the hearty welcome by His Majesty and Tibetan. He wrote, “I had hardly expected to receive such a hearty reception in Tibet, but everyone vied with one another in trying to make me comfortable and in doing everything they could for me. It was gratifying, and proved beyond dispute that the Tibetans bore no ill will on account of the Lhasa expedition, and also that they were genuinely pleased to see me personally.” Claude was surprised to see the wild gooseberries grown in the Himalayas which was out of the blue. While at Lhakhang dzong, Claude visited the Kharchu monastery and some hot springs with His Majesty. After spending a few days at Lhakhang Dzong, Claude accompanied by His Majesty parted for Lhalung monastery. Unlike in Bhutan, not many Tibetan came forward for vaccination at Lhakhang Dzong and Claude assumed there has been no recent outbreak of smallpox.

                           Tuwa Dzong in Southern Tibet (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Passing through Mug, Tashichukhar, and Tuwa Dzong, Claude and His Majesty arrived at Lhalung monastery on 16 June 1906. They were received by the 9^th Peling Sungtrul Tendzin Chokyi Gyeltshen[1]and monks. At the request of His Majesty, Claude stayed at Lhalung for two days. Claude spent two days photographing and discussing diverse topics of interest with His Majesty. From Lhalung, His Majesty accompanied Claude on his journey to the top of Tala Pass (17,900 feet) which was the departure point. After exchanging scarves, His Majesty departed for Bumthang and Claude continued his journey. At the request of His Majesty, Claude sent his vaccinator to Bumthang. After descending the Tala Pass, Claude and his party camped at Sagang and were treated with utmost hospitality by the nomads.

The 9^th Peling Sungtrul Tendzin Chokyi Gyeltshen and monks at Lhalung monastery in Tibet (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Chortens at Lhalung monastery (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Marching onwards from Sagang, Claude passed through Nyeru valley and reached Nelung. On the way, Claude came across numerous lakes and expressed his deep concern over the drying up of lakes. At Nelung, despite numerous attempts to save, Claude lost one of his favourite mules by the name Kitty, whom she had served for many years. From Nelung, Claude travelled the Phari-Gyantse road. At Gyantse, Claude visited F.M. Bailey[2] who was then the officiating British Trade Agent and also his assistant political Officer. From Gyantse, Claude returned and arrived at Gangtok on 6^th July 1906 via Chumbi valley, thus ending his second expedition to eastern Bhutan and southern Tibet. Claude made a final expedition to Bhutan in 1907, representing the British government during the coronation of Sir Ugyen Wangchuck as the first king of Bhutan.

 

Bibliography

Aris, M. (1994). The raven crown: the origins of Buddhist monarchy in Bhutan. Chicago: Serindia Publications.

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] 9^th Peling Sungtrul was the son of king Ugyen Wangchuck’s sister Yeshi Choden and Jakar Dzongpon Chimey Dorji. The 9^th Sungtrul was the nephew of king Ugyen Wangchuck.

[2] Frederick Marshall Bailey later became the British Political Officer in Sikkim, Tibet and Nepal from 1921-1928 and visited Bhutan in 1922. He succeeded Charles Bell. 

The Visits of John Claude White to Bhutan, 1905

 

After the duar war of 1864-1865, Bhutan and the British signed the treaty of Sinchula on 11 November 1865. Bhutan lost all duars of the south and the duar war marked Bhutan’s last war fought against a foreign power. Although the British neither could succeed in establishing an agent nor active trade relation with Bhutan, the British continued to maintain a cordial relationship with Bhutan. There is no recorded history of any major events between the British and Bhutan after 1865 and at the same time, Bhutan did not receive any visitors from the British since. Nearly after 40 years, the Anglo-Bhutan relationship further strengthened in 1904 when His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, and then Trongsa Poenlop accompanied Lieutenant Colonel Francis Edward Younghusband during the expedition to Tibet. His Majesty’s successful role as a go-between during the mission earned him appreciation and recognition from British India. The following year 1905, His Majesty was honoured with the insignia of the Knight Commander of the Indian Empire (K.C.I.E) and John Claude White, who was then a political officer of Sikkim was appointed to head the envoy to confer the K.C.I.E.  White became the first British to visit Bhutan nearly after 40 years since the disastrous visit of Ashely Eden in 1864.

Claude was accompanied by Major F.W. Rennick, A.W. Paul, his confidential clerk Rai Lobzang Choden, and 40 sepoys, two Sikkim pioneers, two Sikkim police and servants. After carefully considering numerous factors, Claude chose a new route of travel to Bhutan, unlike his predecessors. Claude left Gangtok on 29 March 1905 and Karponang was the first halting place. After days of travel, Claude crossed Natula Pass[1] with great difficulty. Descending the Natula Pass, Claude passed through Pema, Champitang and Yatung of Chumbi Valley. At Chumbi Valley, Claude was welcomed by Kazi Ugyen Dorji. From Chumbi Valley, Claude and his party passed through Rinchengong and travelled by the right bank of Ammo Chhu. Reaching Damtheng of Haa, Claude was welcomed by the Dronyer of Trongsa Penlop. From Haa, Claude crossed Chelela and descended Paro Valley. Claude camped and halted in Paro for a few days, probably near a present-day Gorina. During his stay in Paro, Claude observed that porters were feeding mules with two to three raw eggs. Claude wrote, “The eggs were broken into a horn, the mules held up, and the contents of the horn poured down the animal’s throat, and, strange to say, they
seemed to like the unnatural food.”

Chorten at Gorina, Paro (Photo: J.C. White, 1905) 

King Ugyen Wangchuck with John Claude White (Standing),  Major, F. W. Rennick, and A. W. Paul (right) (photo: J.C. White, 1905

A day after Claude arrived in Paro, Paro Penlop, then Dawa Penjor and his young son made a formal visit. Claude presumed Dawa Penjor[2] was about fifty-six years of age, and described as a fair man with a weak, discontented, though not unhandsome face. Claude noticed that he had married a second wife (Rinchen Dolma) after the first wife (Ugyen Zangmo) bore him no child. His second wife bore him a son who was twelve years of age then. Interestingly, Claude observed that his second wife had also given her daughter (Tayi) by her first husband to Penlop. Claude assumes that it was to preserve her influence as she grows older. The family were leading quite a good life. During his stay in Paro, Claude also visited Penlop’s palace, Paro Dzong and Drugyel Dzong.

Paro Penlop Dawa Penjor and his court officials (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Dzong with wooden cantilever bridge (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Drugyel Dzong showing the watch tower (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Drugyel Dzong (Photograph: J.C. White, 1905)

After enjoying the hospitality of Paro, Claude and his party bade farewell to Paro Penlop and departed for Thimphu. Claude halted a night at Chalimaphe (Tshalumaphey, Debsi). Claude was stunned by the remarkable architectural design of bridges and irrigational channels which he sighted on the way. Passing through Simtokha and Changlingmithang, Claude and his party reached Trashichodzong and halted a night. The following day Claude left Trashichodzong and after two days of journey, Claude finally reached Punakha, the capital of Bhutan. The party was grandly welcomed with fifty-gun salutes by His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, Punakha Dzongpon, Thimphu Dzongpoen, Zhung Dronyer, and Deb Zimpoen. Claude already had met His Majesty and Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley[3] during the Younghusband’s expedition to Tibet in 1904 though others were new faces to him.

Simtokha Dzong (Photograph: J.C. White, 1905)

Trashichodzong with Wangditse Lhakhang in the background (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Trashichodzong showing the wooden cantilever bridge (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Monks quarter inside TrashiChhodzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Claude and his party encamped near Punakha Dzong. The following day, Claude was visited by His Majesty and other officials. The presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E was arranged the next day in an open area near Claude’s camp. On the day when the insignia was to be presented, it rained heavily and the ceremony was ultimately shifted to the main hall of Punakha Dzong. The presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E ceremony was presided over by Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngedrup, who was then holding the post of both Deb Raja and Dharma Raja. The ceremony was attended by the Dzongpons of Thimphu and Punakha, Zhung Dronyer, and Deb Zimpon, a representative of Paro Penlop. Though Dagana Penlop had come to Punakha, he could not attend the ceremony due to illness. Hundreds of officials and people attended the significant session. When all officials have taken seats, on behalf of Claude, his confidential clerk Rai Lobzang Choden Sahib read out a short address in Tibetan. After the address, accompanied by Rennick, Claude rose and presented the insignia of K.C.I.E and star to Sir Ugyen Wangchuck followed by the presenting of scarves to his Majesty. All the delegates followed the suit. Then, his Majesty received a scarf and blessing from the Deb Raja and head of abbot (Je Khenpo). The moment followed when hundreds of officials felicitated and scarves were offered to his Majesty. Numerous gifts such as gold dust, tea, rice, silk, woollen and cotton were presented.

Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshi Ngedrup (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

                             Punakha Dzong, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

After the completion of offering scarves, Claude witnessed the Bhutanese traditional custom of Zhugdrel Phunsum Tshogpa and the Marchang ceremony. In the evening, Claude gave a dinner party to Sir Ugyen Wangchuck, Dzongpons and other officials and a magic lantern show was displayed. While staying at Punakha Dzong, Claude witnessed the Bhutanese harsh method of punishment for the murderers. Ten days ago, while in Haa, Claude saw the party from Trongsa had captured a murderer who was accused of murdering one of their men and had disappeared since. The accused when Claude saw at Punakha Dzong had his right hand already cut off and the tendons of his right leg severed. While Claude’s doctor attended to the accused’s wound, the accused did not survive long enough to be cured.

His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, wearing the insignia of K.C.I.E at Trongsa, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 

During the ceremony of presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E at the hall of Punakha Dzong, 1905 (Left side: J.C. White, Major Rennick, Mr Paul, and Subadar Jehandad Khan; Centre: Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngedrup, head abbot (Je Khenpo) Rigzin Nyingpo; Right: Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Sir Ugyen Wangchuck, and Thimphu Dzongpon Kunzang Thinley (Photo: J.C. Claude, 1905)

Left to right in the front: Punakha Dzongpon, Kunzang Thinley (Thimphu Dzongpon), His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, Tshewang Penjor (Zhung Dronyer), Kunzang Tshering (Deb Zimpon), and Ugyen Dorji (the Bhutan Agent) (photo: J.C. White,1905)

Claude and his party also visited Talo Goenpa and Norbugang monastery on their way down. Claude was impressed by the Bhutanese way of treating the guest and enjoyed every hospitality shown and he wrote, “I have always found the Bhutanese, as well the Sikkim people, very appreciative of English food, and as they are Buddhist, with no question of caste, they consider it an honour to be asked to meals and are most anxious to return any hospitality they receive, in marked contrast to the natives of India, who are defiled and outcasted by such intercourse with strangers.”  After spending a few more days at Punakha, Claude and his party left for Trongsa. They halted the first night at Wangdiphodrang. Although the post of Dzongpoen at the time was vacant, they were welcomed and ushered into the fort by Trongsa Dronyer. Claude visited the Dzong and the bridge below which Turner explicitly described during his visit in 1784.

Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Interior of Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J. C. White, 1905)

The bridge below Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 After two days’ march from Wangdiphodrang in heavy rain, Claude crossed Pelela and camped below the village of Rukhubji. On the next day’s journey, Claude and the team passed through Chendebji and reached Tshangkha, the last halting-place before reaching Trongsa. From Tshangkha, Claude’s final leg of the journey to Trongsa Dzong was in misty weather and crossed the cantilever bridge over fast-flowing Mangdechhu. Reaching Trongsa, Claude and his party were welcomed in a grand procession ceremony amidst guns salute. Sir Ugyen Wangchuck graciously ushered Claude into the camp and all required provisions for the party were adequately supplied. During Claude’s few days’ stay at Trongsa, he had witnessed mud fighting culture before the start of the paddy plantation and witnessed mask Bhutanese mask dances, specifically mentioning the Chogyal Yab Yum and Shanak. Claude was stunned by the way Trongsa Dzong stands on the ridge and he beautifully described the majestic fortress.

                   Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

             Trongsa Dzong, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

             Group of monks at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. Claude, 1905)

            Group of women at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 

Group of monks in silk costumes at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

From Trongsa Dzong, Claude had an opportunity to visit Bya-gha (present-day Jakar). Accompanied by the entourage of Trongsa, Claude ascended the steep path leading to Yotongla. After crossing Yotongla, the night was halted at the place Gyatsa before reaching Bumthang. He was welcomed by Jakar Dzongpon Chimey Dorje[4]. From Gyatsa, crossing Kikila, Claude finally reached the valley of Jakar. Claude and his party were heartily welcomed by Sir Ugyen Wangchuck. Claude described their stay at Bumthang for twelve days as the most delightful part of his expedition to Bhutan. During his stay at Bumthang, Claude’s friendship with His Majesty further strengthened and he even visited the private residence. Claude received the greatest hospitality and welcome at Wangdichholing palace. He also visited Lamai Goenpa and Kuje Lhakhang. He was stunned by the Bhutanese architectural design of Dzongs and palaces. What amazes him the most was the Bhutanese have not used any iron in construction but have built formidable structures. Claude wrote highly of His Majesty the king, “Sir Ugyen is the only Bhutanese I have come across who takes a real and intelligent interest in general subjects, both foreign and domestic, and he neither drinks nor indulges in other vices.” Claude was deeply impressed by His Majesty’s sense of responsibility and genuine desire to improve the condition of his country and its countrymen. On finding his Majesty’s sight deteriorating a little, Claude gave his spare pair of spectacles as it exactly suited his Majesty.

Inside the King’s palace at Bumthang (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

After spending twelve days at Bumthang, Claude and his party bade farewell to the family of His Majesty with a heavy heart. In the first hours, His Majesty and his entourage had already left for Trongsa to welcome Claude’s team. Following the same route of journey, Claude crossed Yotongla and reached Trongsa after two days. Reaching Trongsa, Claude was ushered into the Dzong by his Majesty and witnessed the mask dances performed by monks. He was fascinated by the Bhutanese masks. Unlike wooden masks in Sikkim, Claude noticed that masks used by dancers at Trongsa were moulded from cloth and clay. After spending a few days at Trongsa in heavy rain, Claude and his party set off from Trongsa. His Majesty and entourage were determined to accompany and see off Claude on the pass of Pelela. Finally reaching the pass of Pelela, Claude and his Majesty had the last lunch. Claude described a touching farewell and departure from his close friend Sir Ugyen. Claude wrote, “Sir Ugyen waved us a last salute as we turned the corner and went out of sight. I think he really felt our departure as much as I can honestly say I did, and I cannot help myself and saying again that no host could have been more courteous, more hospitable, and more thoughtful of his guests than Sir Ugyen Wangchuck.”

Following the same route of their journey, Claude and his party reached Trashichodzong and were welcomed by Thimphu Dzongpoen.  During his stay at Thimphu, Claude visited Dechen Phodrang, Dechenphu, Pangrizampa, Tango and Cheri monasteries. From Thimphu, instead of returning to Gangtok from Haa valley, Claude chose to travel via Lingzhi Dzong. After bidding farewell to Deb Raja, Thimphu Dzongpons and other officials, Claude and the party left Trashichodzong and ascended the Cheri monastery. In days of incessant rain and unending obstacles, Claude reached Barshong and crossed Yaklela. From Yaklela, Claude and his party reached the Lingzhi. Claude halted for a few days at Lingzhi and visited the ruins of Lingzhi Dzong and Mount Jomolhari was in the sight. After crossing Lingzhi pass, Claude could see the plains and hills of southern Tibet. After bidding the last sorrowful farewell to the Bhutanese entourage team, Claude crossed the sandy plains and reached Tangla. His last leg of the first expedition to Bhutan ended by crossing Phari and finally to Gangtok.

 

Bibliography

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: Twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] Natula Pass is located between Yadong, Tibet and Sikkim, India. The Pass connects Kalimpong and Gangtok to villages of lower Chumbi valley.

[2] Dawa Penjor, the cousin of Ugyen Wangchuck was the son of Dorjee (eldest brother of Jigme Namgyel).

[3] Kunzang Thinley, the first cousin of Ugyen Wangchuck was son of Dungkar Gyeltshen (elder brother of Jigme Namgyel). Kunzang Thinley was often confused with Ugyen Wangchuck due to their close physical resemblance.

[4] Chimey Dorje was the son of Pema Tenzin (brother of Azhi Pema Choki) and he was married to Azhi Yeshi Choden (sister of King Ugyen Wangchuck). He later became Dzongpon of Jakar.