The Account of FM Bailey’s visit to Southern Tibet through Bhutan, 1922

 

Lieutenant Fredrick Marshman Bailey (1882-1767) was a British Political Officer in Sikkim, Bhutan, and Tibet from 1921-1928. F.M. Bailey and his party visited Southern Tibet through Bhutan in 1922, and at the same time presented the insignia of the ‘Grand Cross of Indian Empire’ (G.C.I.E.) to His Majesty the First King. In his journal titled, “Through Bhutan and Southern Tibet 1924” and “Travels in Bhutan 1930”, Bailey described his entire journey from Chumbi Valley to southern Tibet. In 1921, a meeting was held between His Majesty the First King and Lord Ronaldshay, then governor of West Bengal at Paro, where the G.C.I.E will be presented to His Majesty. The outbreak of influenza at the time prevented His Majesty from visiting Lord Ronaldshay and the presentation of the G.C.I.E was postponed. Subsequently, the insignia of the G.C.I.E was later presented by F.M. Bailey at Bumthang in 1922.

The journey of F.M. Bailey and his party began in Chumbi valley on 20 June 1922. The party followed the same route their predecessors have taken. F.M. Bailey was accompanied by his wife, Lady Cozens-Hardy, captain Meade, and Dr Dyer. The Bailey and the party firstly crossed Kyu La (14,150 feet) between Chumbi valley and Haa. Upon reaching Haa, the party spent three days as guests of Gongzim Sonam Tobgye Dorji. Bailey portrayed the Gongzim as well-educated and a remarkable man. He described his one of afternoons playing archery with Bhutanese officers whom he considered quite experts. Bailey noted that the distance between the two targets was 130 yards (118 meters). Like the current pointing system in archery, he observes a hit on the target counts two while an arrow in the ground which is one arrow’s length from the target counts one point. Bailey wrote, “Nothing could have exceeded the kindness of the Bhutanese to us on the road.” The team was grandly treated on the road en route to Bumthang.

After crossing Chile La, the team reached Paro after two days from Haa. They were met by fully armed picturesque bodyguards in blue uniforms with steel helmets of Paro Penlop. The team was hosted by the Paro Penlop. He described their entry into Paro as a medieval dream. He compares the life of chiefs and Penlops to those of Norman times where the Baron lives in the castles, surrounded by soldiers and peasants. During their entire stay in Paro, the bodyguards were accompanied by two dancers who went along with the team during their entire stay at Paro. He also observes that the Penlop even recruited the jester to entertain the retainers. The vegetation of Paro was found to be temperate and rice was the main crop grown. The party also witnesses the fine mask dances in gorgeous costumes. After spending two days in Paro, the team proceeded to Thimphu. On the way, F.M. Bailey and the team even caught a bear cub, which was later sent to Tibet as a gift to the Thirteenth Dalai Lama. From his journal, it comes to know that the team did not visit TrashiChhodzong but halted at a place called Tsalimape. From there, Bailey’s journey to Punakha took two days.

Reaching Punakha, Bailey jotted that the temperature was uncomfortably hot and the climate was dry. He reasons that the hot temperature was the main reason why his predecessors Bogle and Turner notices the movement of Deb Raja (Desi) to TrashiChhodzong during the summer. During their stay in Punakha, Bailey observes one of the rivers (Phochu or Mochu?) was the home of takins. Later, His Majesty gifted two takins to Bailey. While one dies, one survived at the zoo in England. From Punakha, they travelled to Wangdiphodrang, and it took them five days to reach Trongsa from Wangdiphodrang after crossing Pele La. On their second-day journey from Wangdiphodrang, while travelling in the beautiful forest, he came across the most beautiful sight he has ever seen during the entire journey. The beautiful sight he described was the sighting of a lily. In acres of meadow, Bailey found the most striking flower lily (Lilium nepalense burmanicum) grown in plenty at the height of 9900 feet. In later years, he sent his men from Sikkim in the autumn to collect the bulb of lilies and it has successfully been planted in the gardens of Gangtok, Darjeeling, and Edinburgh.

After two days of journeys from Trongsa, Bailey and the party reached Bumthang on 19 July 1922 after 29 days on the road. Reaching Bumthang, Bailey and his party were received by His Majesty the First King in a grand ceremonial manner. Bailey and the party spent 12 days at Bumthang as guests of the His Majesty. Bailey described His Majesty as a fine old man whose young days were spent fighting the enemies. Bailey had met His Majesty when he accompanied Sir Francis Younghusband to Tibet in 1904 and His Majesty played a vital role as a go-between. Bailey noted that there was one school at Bumthang where English was taught. His Majesty had a great hope that those educated boys would later serve the nation in various capacities. The party also played cricket at a football ground with a tennis ball. Bailey wrote that in absence of caste and freedom of women, it was easier for them to form a friendship as with Tibetans. Initially, the Kuje Lhakhang was chosen for the ceremony of the presentation of the G.I.C.E, later the venue was changed to the newer temple as the Kuje temple had become quite old.

On an auspicious day, 28 July 1922, Bailey presented the insignia of the G.I.C.E to His Majesty the king.  After the presentation of the G.I.C.E, all officials of the state offered scarves and all sorts of gifts were presented to His Majesty. The party also witnesses the mask dances; the whole valley population was fed that day. On 31^st July 1922, Bailey and his team left Bumthang for southern Tibet crossing the glacier on the Monlakarchung pass, after spending 12 days at Bumthang. His Majesty saw-off the team from about six miles down the road after having lunch together. After leaving Bumthang, the party travelled to Towa, Tsegutok, Yamdrok, Talung, Nelung Valley and Gyangtse of Southern Tibet.  From Gyangtse, the party returned to Gangtok on 27 August 1922. Captain Meade had successfully surveyed the 6000 miles of the new country they travelled after the completion of 600 miles journey.

His Majesty the First Druk Gyalpo wearing the insignia of the G.C.I.E with Lt. Colonel FM Bailey at Kuje, Bumthang, 1922. (Photo credit: F.M. Bailey, Royal Geographical Society).

During Bailey’s entire stay in Bhutan, he was stunned by the Bhutanese culture, tradition, and artistic skill, especially in metalwork. He observed that people have beautifully made a silver box to hold pan and betel nuts. He noticed the whole population chewing incessantly. He wrote, “Bhutanese has a pretty custom of receiving guests.” However, he observes a big difference between the houses of high officials and those of the peasantry. The rich people live in enormous houses with high walls; while poor people live in houses of wood with the wall fills with planks or mud. He described Bhutanese people as the most kind-hearted and hospitable people. Having a great interest in nature, Bailey described every animal, plant, river, pass, and vegetation of each place he came across during the entire journey. For instance, he described the Lily that he spotted between Wangdiphodrang and Trongsa, “The wonderful plant had a very open bell, the centre of which was deep crimson, with the outer half of the petals a greenish-white.” Bailey also later sent a few specimens of birds found in Bhutan to Edinburgh zoo and surprisingly acclimatized in the new place. The uniqueness and beauty of the country and the presence of kind-hearted and hospitable people had left a memorable and reminiscent impression on F.M. Bailey.

 

Bibliography

Bailey, F. M. (1924). Through Bhutan and Southern Tibet. The Geographical Journal, 64(4), 291-297.

Bailey, F.M. (1930). Travels in Bhutan. Journal of The Royal Central Asian Society, 17(2), 206-220.