The Visits of John Claude White to Bhutan, 1905

 

After the duar war of 1864-1865, Bhutan and the British signed the treaty of Sinchula on 11 November 1865. Bhutan lost all duars of the south and the duar war marked Bhutan’s last war fought against a foreign power. Although the British neither could succeed in establishing an agent nor active trade relation with Bhutan, the British continued to maintain a cordial relationship with Bhutan. There is no recorded history of any major events between the British and Bhutan after 1865 and at the same time, Bhutan did not receive any visitors from the British since. Nearly after 40 years, the Anglo-Bhutan relationship further strengthened in 1904 when His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, and then Trongsa Poenlop accompanied Lieutenant Colonel Francis Edward Younghusband during the expedition to Tibet. His Majesty’s successful role as a go-between during the mission earned him appreciation and recognition from British India. The following year 1905, His Majesty was honoured with the insignia of the Knight Commander of the Indian Empire (K.C.I.E) and John Claude White, who was then a political officer of Sikkim was appointed to head the envoy to confer the K.C.I.E.  White became the first British to visit Bhutan nearly after 40 years since the disastrous visit of Ashely Eden in 1864.

Claude was accompanied by Major F.W. Rennick, A.W. Paul, his confidential clerk Rai Lobzang Choden, and 40 sepoys, two Sikkim pioneers, two Sikkim police and servants. After carefully considering numerous factors, Claude chose a new route of travel to Bhutan, unlike his predecessors. Claude left Gangtok on 29 March 1905 and Karponang was the first halting place. After days of travel, Claude crossed Natula Pass[1] with great difficulty. Descending the Natula Pass, Claude passed through Pema, Champitang and Yatung of Chumbi Valley. At Chumbi Valley, Claude was welcomed by Kazi Ugyen Dorji. From Chumbi Valley, Claude and his party passed through Rinchengong and travelled by the right bank of Ammo Chhu. Reaching Damtheng of Haa, Claude was welcomed by the Dronyer of Trongsa Penlop. From Haa, Claude crossed Chelela and descended Paro Valley. Claude camped and halted in Paro for a few days, probably near a present-day Gorina. During his stay in Paro, Claude observed that porters were feeding mules with two to three raw eggs. Claude wrote, “The eggs were broken into a horn, the mules held up, and the contents of the horn poured down the animal’s throat, and, strange to say, they
seemed to like the unnatural food.”

Chorten at Gorina, Paro (Photo: J.C. White, 1905) 

King Ugyen Wangchuck with John Claude White (Standing),  Major, F. W. Rennick, and A. W. Paul (right) (photo: J.C. White, 1905

A day after Claude arrived in Paro, Paro Penlop, then Dawa Penjor and his young son made a formal visit. Claude presumed Dawa Penjor[2] was about fifty-six years of age, and described as a fair man with a weak, discontented, though not unhandsome face. Claude noticed that he had married a second wife (Rinchen Dolma) after the first wife (Ugyen Zangmo) bore him no child. His second wife bore him a son who was twelve years of age then. Interestingly, Claude observed that his second wife had also given her daughter (Tayi) by her first husband to Penlop. Claude assumes that it was to preserve her influence as she grows older. The family were leading quite a good life. During his stay in Paro, Claude also visited Penlop’s palace, Paro Dzong and Drugyel Dzong.

Paro Penlop Dawa Penjor and his court officials (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Dzong with wooden cantilever bridge (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Drugyel Dzong showing the watch tower (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Paro Drugyel Dzong (Photograph: J.C. White, 1905)

After enjoying the hospitality of Paro, Claude and his party bade farewell to Paro Penlop and departed for Thimphu. Claude halted a night at Chalimaphe (Tshalumaphey, Debsi). Claude was stunned by the remarkable architectural design of bridges and irrigational channels which he sighted on the way. Passing through Simtokha and Changlingmithang, Claude and his party reached Trashichodzong and halted a night. The following day Claude left Trashichodzong and after two days of journey, Claude finally reached Punakha, the capital of Bhutan. The party was grandly welcomed with fifty-gun salutes by His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, Punakha Dzongpon, Thimphu Dzongpoen, Zhung Dronyer, and Deb Zimpoen. Claude already had met His Majesty and Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley[3] during the Younghusband’s expedition to Tibet in 1904 though others were new faces to him.

Simtokha Dzong (Photograph: J.C. White, 1905)

Trashichodzong with Wangditse Lhakhang in the background (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Trashichodzong showing the wooden cantilever bridge (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Monks quarter inside TrashiChhodzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Claude and his party encamped near Punakha Dzong. The following day, Claude was visited by His Majesty and other officials. The presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E was arranged the next day in an open area near Claude’s camp. On the day when the insignia was to be presented, it rained heavily and the ceremony was ultimately shifted to the main hall of Punakha Dzong. The presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E ceremony was presided over by Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngedrup, who was then holding the post of both Deb Raja and Dharma Raja. The ceremony was attended by the Dzongpons of Thimphu and Punakha, Zhung Dronyer, and Deb Zimpon, a representative of Paro Penlop. Though Dagana Penlop had come to Punakha, he could not attend the ceremony due to illness. Hundreds of officials and people attended the significant session. When all officials have taken seats, on behalf of Claude, his confidential clerk Rai Lobzang Choden Sahib read out a short address in Tibetan. After the address, accompanied by Rennick, Claude rose and presented the insignia of K.C.I.E and star to Sir Ugyen Wangchuck followed by the presenting of scarves to his Majesty. All the delegates followed the suit. Then, his Majesty received a scarf and blessing from the Deb Raja and head of abbot (Je Khenpo). The moment followed when hundreds of officials felicitated and scarves were offered to his Majesty. Numerous gifts such as gold dust, tea, rice, silk, woollen and cotton were presented.

Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshi Ngedrup (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

                             Punakha Dzong, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

After the completion of offering scarves, Claude witnessed the Bhutanese traditional custom of Zhugdrel Phunsum Tshogpa and the Marchang ceremony. In the evening, Claude gave a dinner party to Sir Ugyen Wangchuck, Dzongpons and other officials and a magic lantern show was displayed. While staying at Punakha Dzong, Claude witnessed the Bhutanese harsh method of punishment for the murderers. Ten days ago, while in Haa, Claude saw the party from Trongsa had captured a murderer who was accused of murdering one of their men and had disappeared since. The accused when Claude saw at Punakha Dzong had his right hand already cut off and the tendons of his right leg severed. While Claude’s doctor attended to the accused’s wound, the accused did not survive long enough to be cured.

His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, wearing the insignia of K.C.I.E at Trongsa, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 

During the ceremony of presentation of the insignia of the K.C.I.E at the hall of Punakha Dzong, 1905 (Left side: J.C. White, Major Rennick, Mr Paul, and Subadar Jehandad Khan; Centre: Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngedrup, head abbot (Je Khenpo) Rigzin Nyingpo; Right: Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Sir Ugyen Wangchuck, and Thimphu Dzongpon Kunzang Thinley (Photo: J.C. Claude, 1905)

Left to right in the front: Punakha Dzongpon, Kunzang Thinley (Thimphu Dzongpon), His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuck, Tshewang Penjor (Zhung Dronyer), Kunzang Tshering (Deb Zimpon), and Ugyen Dorji (the Bhutan Agent) (photo: J.C. White,1905)

Claude and his party also visited Talo Goenpa and Norbugang monastery on their way down. Claude was impressed by the Bhutanese way of treating the guest and enjoyed every hospitality shown and he wrote, “I have always found the Bhutanese, as well the Sikkim people, very appreciative of English food, and as they are Buddhist, with no question of caste, they consider it an honour to be asked to meals and are most anxious to return any hospitality they receive, in marked contrast to the natives of India, who are defiled and outcasted by such intercourse with strangers.”  After spending a few more days at Punakha, Claude and his party left for Trongsa. They halted the first night at Wangdiphodrang. Although the post of Dzongpoen at the time was vacant, they were welcomed and ushered into the fort by Trongsa Dronyer. Claude visited the Dzong and the bridge below which Turner explicitly described during his visit in 1784.

Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

Interior of Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J. C. White, 1905)

The bridge below Wangdiphodrang Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 After two days’ march from Wangdiphodrang in heavy rain, Claude crossed Pelela and camped below the village of Rukhubji. On the next day’s journey, Claude and the team passed through Chendebji and reached Tshangkha, the last halting-place before reaching Trongsa. From Tshangkha, Claude’s final leg of the journey to Trongsa Dzong was in misty weather and crossed the cantilever bridge over fast-flowing Mangdechhu. Reaching Trongsa, Claude and his party were welcomed in a grand procession ceremony amidst guns salute. Sir Ugyen Wangchuck graciously ushered Claude into the camp and all required provisions for the party were adequately supplied. During Claude’s few days’ stay at Trongsa, he had witnessed mud fighting culture before the start of the paddy plantation and witnessed mask Bhutanese mask dances, specifically mentioning the Chogyal Yab Yum and Shanak. Claude was stunned by the way Trongsa Dzong stands on the ridge and he beautifully described the majestic fortress.

                   Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

             Trongsa Dzong, 1905 (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

             Group of monks at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. Claude, 1905)

            Group of women at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

 

Group of monks in silk costumes at Trongsa Dzong (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

From Trongsa Dzong, Claude had an opportunity to visit Bya-gha (present-day Jakar). Accompanied by the entourage of Trongsa, Claude ascended the steep path leading to Yotongla. After crossing Yotongla, the night was halted at the place Gyatsa before reaching Bumthang. He was welcomed by Jakar Dzongpon Chimey Dorje[4]. From Gyatsa, crossing Kikila, Claude finally reached the valley of Jakar. Claude and his party were heartily welcomed by Sir Ugyen Wangchuck. Claude described their stay at Bumthang for twelve days as the most delightful part of his expedition to Bhutan. During his stay at Bumthang, Claude’s friendship with His Majesty further strengthened and he even visited the private residence. Claude received the greatest hospitality and welcome at Wangdichholing palace. He also visited Lamai Goenpa and Kuje Lhakhang. He was stunned by the Bhutanese architectural design of Dzongs and palaces. What amazes him the most was the Bhutanese have not used any iron in construction but have built formidable structures. Claude wrote highly of His Majesty the king, “Sir Ugyen is the only Bhutanese I have come across who takes a real and intelligent interest in general subjects, both foreign and domestic, and he neither drinks nor indulges in other vices.” Claude was deeply impressed by His Majesty’s sense of responsibility and genuine desire to improve the condition of his country and its countrymen. On finding his Majesty’s sight deteriorating a little, Claude gave his spare pair of spectacles as it exactly suited his Majesty.

Inside the King’s palace at Bumthang (Photo: J.C. White, 1905)

After spending twelve days at Bumthang, Claude and his party bade farewell to the family of His Majesty with a heavy heart. In the first hours, His Majesty and his entourage had already left for Trongsa to welcome Claude’s team. Following the same route of journey, Claude crossed Yotongla and reached Trongsa after two days. Reaching Trongsa, Claude was ushered into the Dzong by his Majesty and witnessed the mask dances performed by monks. He was fascinated by the Bhutanese masks. Unlike wooden masks in Sikkim, Claude noticed that masks used by dancers at Trongsa were moulded from cloth and clay. After spending a few days at Trongsa in heavy rain, Claude and his party set off from Trongsa. His Majesty and entourage were determined to accompany and see off Claude on the pass of Pelela. Finally reaching the pass of Pelela, Claude and his Majesty had the last lunch. Claude described a touching farewell and departure from his close friend Sir Ugyen. Claude wrote, “Sir Ugyen waved us a last salute as we turned the corner and went out of sight. I think he really felt our departure as much as I can honestly say I did, and I cannot help myself and saying again that no host could have been more courteous, more hospitable, and more thoughtful of his guests than Sir Ugyen Wangchuck.”

Following the same route of their journey, Claude and his party reached Trashichodzong and were welcomed by Thimphu Dzongpoen.  During his stay at Thimphu, Claude visited Dechen Phodrang, Dechenphu, Pangrizampa, Tango and Cheri monasteries. From Thimphu, instead of returning to Gangtok from Haa valley, Claude chose to travel via Lingzhi Dzong. After bidding farewell to Deb Raja, Thimphu Dzongpons and other officials, Claude and the party left Trashichodzong and ascended the Cheri monastery. In days of incessant rain and unending obstacles, Claude reached Barshong and crossed Yaklela. From Yaklela, Claude and his party reached the Lingzhi. Claude halted for a few days at Lingzhi and visited the ruins of Lingzhi Dzong and Mount Jomolhari was in the sight. After crossing Lingzhi pass, Claude could see the plains and hills of southern Tibet. After bidding the last sorrowful farewell to the Bhutanese entourage team, Claude crossed the sandy plains and reached Tangla. His last leg of the first expedition to Bhutan ended by crossing Phari and finally to Gangtok.

 

Bibliography

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: Twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] Natula Pass is located between Yadong, Tibet and Sikkim, India. The Pass connects Kalimpong and Gangtok to villages of lower Chumbi valley.

[2] Dawa Penjor, the cousin of Ugyen Wangchuck was the son of Dorjee (eldest brother of Jigme Namgyel).

[3] Kunzang Thinley, the first cousin of Ugyen Wangchuck was son of Dungkar Gyeltshen (elder brother of Jigme Namgyel). Kunzang Thinley was often confused with Ugyen Wangchuck due to their close physical resemblance.

[4] Chimey Dorje was the son of Pema Tenzin (brother of Azhi Pema Choki) and he was married to Azhi Yeshi Choden (sister of King Ugyen Wangchuck). He later became Dzongpon of Jakar.