The Second Expedition of Frederick Marshman Bailey to the Tsangpo river and his Journey through Trashigang to Assam, 1913

Despite numerous attempts made in the nineteenth century, explorers and geographers could solve the puzzle of the Tsangpo river; where does the Tsangpo river flow? Besides, the expeditions were met with numerous encumbrances and geographical barriers which renders the expedition a relatively low success. Determined to find the answer to the unsolved puzzle, F.M. Bailey who had a sound language background and an understanding of Tibetans set off on 23 March 1911. In his quest, he was accompanied by a sixteen-year-old Tibetan boy called Putambu. After sailing up the Yangtse river, Bailey entered eastern Tibet. His months of dreary journeys and struggles proved futile. Bailey could not even reach the Tsangpo river due to the outbreak of local wars. He instead explored the Lohit Brahmaputra to the east down to Sadiya in Assam[1].

Tsangpo river (Source: The Exploration of the Tsangpo River and its Mountains by Michael ward, 2000, p.125)

 Undaunted by the earlier failure, F.M. Bailey led another expedition to survey the Tsangpo river in 1913. He was accompanied by the surveyor Henry Treise Morshead (1882-1931). They set off from Mimi, Arunachal Pradesh on 16 May 1913. In the span of six months, the duo surveyed 380 miles of the Tsangpo and confirmed that the Tsangpo river flows into the Brahmaputra. Besides, numerous new species of mammals, birds, and butterflies were discovered and collected.[2] On his return journey, Bailey travelled via Tawang to Trashigang and Rangiya. Bailey had maintained details of his entire journey in the journal.

Captain Henry Treise Morshead (Left) and Lt. Colonel F.M. Bailey (right) (source: No passport to Tibet by F.M. Bailey, 1957, p.32)

As per Bailey’s journal, he arrived at Lumla[3] on 18 November 1913 after more than six months on the road. After halting the night at Lumla, Bailey reached the first Bhutanese village, Chang Pu, on 7 November (present-day ‘Jangphu’ under Toedtsho gewog, Trashiyangtse). Bailey was pleased with the hospitality received at Jangphu. Plenty of food and locally brewed chang was served. Judging his description of the drink, Bailey must have served bang-chang. He observed that chang was brewed from millet with little addition of maize and barley. He wrote: “The grain was fermented in a bowl and then hot water was poured on it. They served it in a bowl and then hot water was poured on it. They served it by pressing down a small basket which filled with the liquor without allowing any grains to come through, and this they allowed to flow into wooden cups.” From Jangphu, Bailey descended down the Manam village[4] and noticed that villagers were engaged in the fields. Descending further down the hill, Bailey crossed the Tawang river (it is popularly called Gongri by locals) over a cane suspension bridge with a span of 180 feet.

Continuing the journey on the left bank of the Tawang river, Bailey observed plenty of cultivation of lac insects in the valley. After travelling for two miles, Bailey ascended the steep hill which was dominated by pine trees. Bailey was grandly welcomed at Yallang village and was offered chang. Travelling four miles from Yallang village, Bailey arrived at Ramjar village on 8 November 1911. At Ramjar, he was questioned by the minor old official who was in charge of the village regarding his passport and reasons for travel. Bailey wrote the official in charge was about 72 years old. After convincing the official and halting a night, Bailey continued his journey towards Trashigang Dzong. Judging by his journal, Bailey must have travelled the road leading to Bartsham instead of following the old road via Gomphu-kora. 

  

After crossing the bridge span of sixty feet over the Gamri Chhu, Bailey climbed up to the Trashigang Dzong. He was welcomed by Dzongpon with the scarf. The Dzongpon Bailey mentioned at Trashigang Dzong was probably Sonam Tshering, the father of Kunzang Thinley alias Sey Dopola.[5] The Dzongpon personally led Bailey to the room, holding his hands. Bailey described that the religious dances were in progress. He probably might have arrived at the Dzong during the important religious conduct. He witnessed various mask dances and also the naming ceremonies of babies. Visiting the room of the Dzongpon, Bailey found lots of refiles and some had marks of the Indian government. Bailey left Trashigang on 10 November and ascended the Yonphu La (8250 feet). From the top of Yonphu La, before turning towards the south, Bailey had a last look towards the hills, and mountains towards the Bhutan-Tawang border from whence he came ten days ago. After five days of the journey towards the southern plain, Bailey reached Rangiya on 14 November 1913, which brought to the end of his second successful expedition to the Tsangpo river.

Bailey’s visit to Bhutan did not end in 1913. After assuming the role of the political officer in 1921, F.M. Bailey officially visited Bhutan in 1922 to confer the insignia of the Grand Cross of the Indian Empire to His Majesty king Ugyen Wangchuck. The presentation of the G.C.I.E took place at Bumthang Kuje on 28 July 1922. From Bumthang, Bailey travelled to Southern Tibet. In 1924, Bailey again visited Punakha during the installation of Sonam Tobgye Dorji as the Governor of Haa.

 

Bibliography

Bailey, F. M. (1957). No passport to Tibet. London: Butler & Tanner Ltd.

Bailey. F.M. (1914). Exploration on the Tsangpo or upper Brahmaputra. The Geographical Journal. https://doi.org/10.2307/1778591.

Swinson, A. (1971). Beyond the frontiers: the biography of Colonel F. M. Bailey explorer and special agent. London: Hutchinson & Co (Publishers) Ltd.

Ward, M. (2000). The Exploration of the Tsangpo River and its Mountains. Alpine Journal, 105, 124-130.

 

 

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[1] Read Michael Ward’s ‘The Exploration of the Tsangpo River and its Mountains

[2] Read F.M. Bailey’s journal, ‘Exploration on the Tsangpo or upper Brahmaputra.’

[3] One of the Provinces under Tawang which lies adjacent to Jangpu village, Trashiyangtse

[4]  A small village which lies below the Jangphu village, and above the Tawang river.

[5] Sey Dopola became Trashigang Dzongpon in 1927 during the reign of the second king.