The Third Expedition of John Claude White to Bhutan, 1907

 

The visits of John Claude White to Bhutan in 1907 was his last expedition and it was at the invitation of His Majesty the First King. Claude was also a representative of British India during the enthronement ceremony of Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary monarch on 17 December 1907. Claude left Gangtok on 25 November 1907. He was accompanied by Major Rennick, Mr Wilton, Mr William Lachlan Campbell[1], and Captain Henry Hyslop. Ahead of his journey, Claude had sent Campbell to Chumbi for necessary preparations. Reaching Chumbi, Claude caught a cold and was forced to halt for a few more days. On December 2, Claude and his party departed from Chumbi. After two days of a harsh journey, Claude reached Phari on 4 December 1907. After crossing Temo-La[2] (16,500 feet), Bhutan was in the sight and shortly received by Drugyel Dzongpoen. The Dzongpon also bore the message of His Majesty welcoming Claude and his party.

Descending the Temo-La and crossing Pachhu, Claude and his party reached Paro Drugyel Dzong on 6 December. While halting for two days at Drugyel Dzong, Claude and his party visited Paro Taktsang. Captain Hyslop who accompanied Claude wrote about Taktshang, “ The main Gompa perched absolutely in the middle of a sheer cliff with a drop of at least 1500 feet of bare rock. The monastery consisted of some three series of buildings each two stories high. The middle and main building was apparently the chief temple, for it was surmounted by a very beautiful glided roof centre piece……. A foot misplaced  or a slip would have sent one down some thousand feet.” On the way to Paro Dzong on 9 December, Claude was welcomed by Kazi Ugyen Dorji and representatives of the Paro Penlop. Arriving at Paro, they were received by Paro Penlop Dawa Penjor and his fifteen-year-old son.

When Claude arrived at Paro Dzong, the majestic Paro Dzong he described in 1705 had been reduced to ashes. Claude saw only a heap of blackened ruins and few standing walls. The reconstruction works had already begun and timbers were collected. They were told that the whole of the country was contributing towards the reconstruction and it would take four years to complete. After bidding farewell to Paro Penlop, Claude departed for Thimphu on 11 December and halted a night at the place Chalimaphe. Unfortunately, Claude was attacked by fever and halted for a few days while Captain Hyslop, Campbell and a few followers visited Trashichodzong. Hyslop explicitly described the Dzong and while he was taken inside the Dzong, he was amazed to see the Bhutanese-made refiles that were an exact copy of the refiles that were gifted by their predecessors. More surprisingly, even the name of the gun manufacturer (Walter Locke and Co.) was exactly engraved though Hyslop found it difficult to read. Hyslop was amused on seeing that the photos of Claude and other visitors hung inside the Dzong.

Paro Taktshang (Photo: J.C. White private collection, 1907)

On 14 December, Claude and the party left for Punakha and visited Simtokha Dzong on the way. After crossing Dokyong-La (Present day Dochu-La?), Claude halted a night at the bottom of the hill in the paddy fields (probably the present-day Thinleygang). On the following day’s journey, Claude was received by Gasa Dzongpoen before reaching Punakha. Claude and the party reached Punakha Dzong on 15 December 1907; and were escorted in a full Bhutanese traditional ceremonial procession. Claude was grandly welcomed by His Majesty and his council and Claude observed that the camp was beautifully and comfortably laid. The edges of the paths toward the camp were decorated with pot plants and red cloth was laid down which Claude believed were evident traces of the impressions the Bhutanese had brought from their visit to Calcutta in 1906[3].

John Claude White approaching Punakha Dzong in a ceremonial procession on 15^th December 1907 (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The next day was spent on preparation for the enthronement of His Majesty the king. Claude visited the main hall for the ceremony along with Hyslop. They observed the entrance toward the Dzong had become quite buzzing with cloth merchants and pan-sellers (areca nuts and betel leaf sellers)  in the progress of setting stalls. On the day of enthronement on 17 December 1907, Claude and his team left the camp for the hall at 10 AM and were welcomed by His Majesty and the council. His Majesty was seated in the centre and wore a robe of blue silk brocade and the scarlet shawl. His Majesty had also worn the star and ribbon of the K.C.I.E that was presented in 1905.

Claude was offered a seat on the right of His Majesty and the Jekhenpo on the left. Hyslop noticed that Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley was the master of ceremonies. The ceremony began with the presentation of gifts from the government of India followed by Jekhenpo, Penlops, Dzongpons and officials presenting their gifts to His Majesty. The moment was followed by presenting scarves by His Majesty and the council to the delegates of the mission. The ceremony then proceeded with the tea-drinking ceremony (probably the Zhukdrel Pheunsum Tshogpa).  Hyslop interestingly wrote, “ Tea and other drinks were handed round, first some yam soup, sweet brown stuff that cocoa, then butter tea, and then chang. As small quantities of each of these were poured into the cup you can imagine the awful mixture, fortunately, we were not expected to drink it all up.”

After the tea ceremony, the head clerk of the council rose and read the oath of allegiance to the new Druk Gyalpo. The Jekhenpo took the seal of Deb Raja (seal of Zhabdrung Rinpoche) which measures about five inches square out of the casket and painted it with vermillion and finally the impression was taken. The reigning Deb Raja Chogley Truelku Yeshe Ngodup was absent during the ceremony. One after another, the sealing of the ‘Genja’ went on for an hour. All other’s impressions were in black ink. While sealing was in the process, White and Hyslop took some photographs of the proceeding. After the last official sealed the genja, Claude gave a short speech and the conclusion of the speech read, “I wish you long life and prosperity, and may your descendants be equally worthy to succeed you for many generations to come.” Claude congratulated His Majesty and a scarf was offered. Claude observed that two copies of duly sealed genja were produced. The speech was translated into Tibetan and handed over to His Majesty. With the closing of the ceremony, Ugyen Wangchuck officially became the first Druk Gyalpo of Bhutan. Towards the evening, Claude gave a dinner to His Majesty and the councillors to honour the ascension to the golden throne.

During the enthronement of Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary king on 17^th December 1907 at Punakha Dzong (From left: John Claude White, Kazi Ugyen Dorji, King Ugyen Wangchuck, Jekhenpo Jampel Shenyen. (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The sealing of contractual agreement ‘Genja’ by officials on 17 December 1907, inside Punakha Dzong (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The contract agreement (Genja) adopted during the enthronement of king Ugyen Wangchuck, on 17 December 1907 ( Source: A copy reproduced from John Claude White’s Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier, 1909)

 In the past years, an annual subsidy of Rs. 50,000 was paid at Buxa, in the duars. In 1907, along with the mission brought the annual subsidy and handed over His Majesty the Druk Gyalpo on 19 December. In return, His Majesty offered a small offering of salt and cloths to the mission. At the request of His Majesty, Claude attended the first council meeting after being enthroned as the Druk Gyalpo. Claude discussed and advised His Majesty on the various aspect of the administration. 

Presenting the annual subsidy of Rs. 50,000 on 19 December 1907 at Punakha (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The group photo was taken at Punakha, on 19 December 1907

Standing from left: Captain Henry Hyslop, Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Punakha Dzongpoen Palden Wangchuk, Major F.W. Rennick, Thimphu Dzongpoen Kunzang Thinley, Deb Zimpoen Kunzang Tsering.

Seated from left: Captain W.L. Campbell. John Claude White, King Ugyen Wangchuck, and Paro Poenlop Dawa Penjor (Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

The mission halted for a few more days at Punakha and Claude exchanged numerous visits with officials. The mission visited Wangdiphodrang Dzong and while passing through Norbugang village, Hyslop wrote, “ This is quite the most picturesque village I have seen, the houses are built on a tiny scale and are surrounded with orange, persimmon, and other fruit trees; each little domain is most carefully fenced and the whole is kept extremely clean and tidy.”

His Majesty the first king with Penlops, Dzongpons, officers and soldiers  (Photo taken at Punakha on 25 December 1907, Christmas day. Photo: H. Hyslop private collection, 1907)

 The mission celebrated Christmas day on 25 December at Punakha. Luckily the post came in time before breakfast. Later, His Majesty, the council and the people came to be photographed. Hyslop described that the group photo was the most picturesque though the colour effect does not show in the photo. Later in the afternoon, the mission distributed the four anna bit (the British coin) to each person and thousands of people gathered from the neighbourhood. In the evening, the dinner party was given and a lantern show was also displayed. With the end of the celebration of Christmas day, Campbell bade farewell and left for Chumbi on 26 December and Hyslop and Rennick left Punakha via the Buxa route on 27 December 1907. At the request of His Majesty, Claude stayed at Punakha for several days. Claude discussed with His Majesty and the council on various projects and schemes for the development of the country. Considering the lack of funds was the stumbling block toward the development, Claude saw the cultivation of tea on the southern foothills, the sale of timbers and the mining concessions are possible means to generate considerable revenue.

After several days, Claude left Punakha in January 1907. On the day of departure, his Majesty accompanied Claude four miles from Punakha where they took sad farewells to each other with heavy hearts. His Majesty was distressed as Claude’s retirement was closing in and the moment might be the last time to meet. Claude wrote, “ I have never met a native I liked and respected more than I do Sir Ugyen. He is upright, honest, open, and straightforward, and I wish it had been possible to remain in India till he had at least commenced some of his schemes of reform.” Accompanied by Kazi Ugyen Dorji, Claude arrived at Jaigon after travelling via Paro and Haa. From Jaigon, Claude also inspected the southern foothills along the border to see the feasibility of tea cultivation and explore copper deposits in hopes to help Bhutan in generating revenue. From Jaigon, Claude travelled to Gangtok. Claude concluded his third expedition to Bhutan with sincere prayers and wishes, “ This ended my last official visit to Bhutan; but I hope it will not be my last visit, as I look forward to meeting Sir Ugyen and his sister again, as well as all Bhutan official, and to revisiting the country in which I have spent so many pleasant months.”

Claude played a pivotal role in identifying His Majesty as the first Druk Galpo and strengthening the Anglo-Bhutan friendship. John Claude White became the first Britisher to become a close friend with His Majesty the first king, the country and its people. Claude earnestly wishes to assist Bhutan’s development although fund support from the British government was not forthcoming. Claude retired from the service shortly after his return to India in 1908 and left for England. John Claude White passed away in 1918.

 

Bibliography

Aris, M. (1994). The raven crown: the origins of Buddhist monarchy in Bhutan. Chicago: Serindia Publications.

Collister, P. (1987). Bhutan and the British. London: Serindia Publications

Hyslop, H. (1908). Extracts from my diary, written while accompanying the British Mission to Bhutan 1907-08. Accessed from http://pahar.in/pahar/1908-bhutan-1907-08-extracts-from-diary-while-accompanying-british-mision-to-bhutan-by-hyslop-s-pdf/.

 

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] William Lachlan Campbell was an assistant political officer then and accompanied Claude’s mission to Bhutan in 1907. Later, Campbell briefly became the British Political Officer in Sikkim from 1918-19.

[2] The boundary between Bhutan and Tibet

[3] His Majesty the First King visited Calcutta in 1906 to meet the Prince of Wales and Viceroy.  His Majesty made a second-time visit to India in 1911.