The Second Expedition of John Claude White to Eastern Bhutan and Southern Tibet, 1906

 

John Claude White’s long-time dream of exploring eastern Bhutan and a neighbouring portion of Tibet materialized in 1906. On 13 May 1906, Claude left Gangtok and embarked on a long journey to eastern Bhutan. He was accompanied by the state engineer, Mr Dover. He had also brought along with him the vaccinator after receiving the news of the smallpox outbreak in Bhutan. Claude travelled to Gauhati via Siliguri and Dhubri. After halting briefly in Gauhati for preparation, Claude marched toward the hills of Bhutan. After arranging five elephants and a few mules, Claude marched toward Dewathang in thunderstorms and downpours. Claude and his party finally reached Dewathang after encountering immeasurable encumbrances.

Claude halted for a few days at Dewathang, wanting more mules which he expected from Trongsa. On one of the nights, Claude lost one of his mules to the tiger. Since the additional mules were not forthcoming, Claude continued the journey from Dewathang. Claude passed through Rading and reached Chungkhar (6475 feet), a village in Pemagatshel. On the way, Claude passed Yongla Goenpa though he did not visit it. He was welcomed by officials from Trongsa who were dispatched by king Ugyen Wangchuck. Days later at Chungkhar, Claude received additional mules sent from Trongsa. Claude learnt that delay was caused by the destruction of bridges en route to Dewathang on account of an outbreak of smallpox. It was then the Bhutanese primitive way of containing the epidemic that break the chain of communication among the villages.

Bhutanese houses, probably at Dewathang (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

At Chungkhar, the vaccinator whom Claude brought along had vaccinated more than a hundred people in their camp. Claude observed people willingly came forward for the vaccination. Claude also observed a few young boys smoking cigarettes. From Chungkhar, Claude crossed Demrichhu and reached Denchung where Trashigang Dzongpoen welcomed him. After spending a night at Denchung, Claude resumed his journey towards Trashigang. On the way, Claude passed by the sight of the Barshong iron mine which was situated in a fine valley and he had a pinch of remorse for discovering it late. After crossing Yuto La (8300 feet), Claude rode the way through oak and rhododendron woods. From Rongthung, Claude’s journey to Trashigang Dzong was in the hot sun and he described that the only shade found was behind the chortens. At Trashigang Dzong, Claude was accommodated in Dzongpon’s room. On Trashigang Dzong, Claude wrote “The Dzong at Trashigang is particularly well situated on a ridge between two rivers, Drangmechhu and the Gamrichhu, and is constructed after the Bhutanese fashion, with courtyards and citadels. It has a fine temple, with an unusually large pair of tusks supporting the altar, and fittings in excellent metalwork.” 

While halting for a day at Trashigang, his vaccinator had vaccinated over two hundred people and people were pleased with the service. Claude’s initial plan to travel to Tibet via Trashiyangtse through Tawang was prohibited by the government of India. He was obliged to travel from Lhuentse to Tibet via Singye Dzong. Descending from the Dzong, Claude crossed the iron suspension bridge and proceeded to Trashiyangtse on the road which wound along the hillside. Claude reached present-day Gomphu Kora and he gave an interesting description, “Here there is a very curious little temple, with a prayer wall completely surrounding a large stone, which has a curious water-worn hole through its centre. It is considered extremely holy, and to crawl into the small hole and out at the other side is an act of merit.”

 A little further, Claude crossed a wooden cantilever bridge over the Kholongchhu and climbed a steep ridge. The team halted a night at a place called Serpang (6450 feet). At the camp of Serpang, many villagers were vaccinated and attended to various minor diseases. Marching from Serpang, Claude reached present-day old Trasiyangtse Dzong (5900 feet). Claude wrote, “ The Dzong of Trashiyangtse is situated on a sharp spur between the Kholongchhu and Dongdi rivers, with a very pretty view looking up the valley. In the river, with its beautiful pools and number of fish, there ought to be some good fishing.” While halting at Trashiyangtse, Claude visited ‘Chorten Kora’ and described it as a fine specimen which is partly built on the lines of big Chorten at Kathmandu. Claude observed that there were full-swing ploughing and sowing near the Chorten.

After departing from Trashiyangtse, Claude first halted at a place called Wangtung (10,000 feet). With great difficulty, Claude crossed Dhongla pass in rain and descended to the Kurichhu. After travelling some distance along the left bank of Kurichhu, Claude ascended the hills leading up to the present-day Nyalamdhung. From Nyalamdhung, Claude wrote that he had a good view of Lhuentse Dzong and he later learnt the Dzongpon of Lhuentse was disappointed as Claude did not visit the Dzong. Reaching Pangkhar village, Claude lodged in the Wangdiphodrang Dronyer’s house. From Pangkhar, Claude crossed Yela and descended to Khomachhu. Climbing up the hills, Claude reached a present-day Tsikang and camped in rain. Claude attempted to reach Singye Dzong from Tsikang in a single day but could not make it. Claude camped at a place called Tusum Mani (10,900 feet). After a beautiful ride from Tusum Mani, Claude reached Singye Dzong on 8 June 1906 after almost a month on the road. Claude wrote about Singye Dzong, “A small fort, hardly worthy of the name, but well situated on a large flat, with fine snow views all around.” Without halting at Singye Dzong, Claude proceeded and camped at the base of Kang La. After ascending the Kang La, Claude halted a night at Metsephu (15,300 feet). The next day, Claude crossed Bod La (16,290 feet), the boundary between Tibet and Bhutan.

Porters resting at the base of Bod La  (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Descending the Tibetan side of Bod La, Claude was delighted to see the waiting coolies and yaks led by the representative from Lhakhang Dzong and the head of the nearby village.  Claude then rode on the yak which he found to be sure-footed. After a day, on 11 June 1906, Claude arrived at Lhakhang Dzong and was heartily welcomed by His Majesty the king Ugyen Wangchuck. The duo had a lengthy discussion on various subjects. Claude was greatly impressed by the hearty welcome by His Majesty and Tibetan. He wrote, “I had hardly expected to receive such a hearty reception in Tibet, but everyone vied with one another in trying to make me comfortable and in doing everything they could for me. It was gratifying, and proved beyond dispute that the Tibetans bore no ill will on account of the Lhasa expedition, and also that they were genuinely pleased to see me personally.” Claude was surprised to see the wild gooseberries grown in the Himalayas which was out of the blue. While at Lhakhang dzong, Claude visited the Kharchu monastery and some hot springs with His Majesty. After spending a few days at Lhakhang Dzong, Claude accompanied by His Majesty parted for Lhalung monastery. Unlike in Bhutan, not many Tibetan came forward for vaccination at Lhakhang Dzong and Claude assumed there has been no recent outbreak of smallpox.

                           Tuwa Dzong in Southern Tibet (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Passing through Mug, Tashichukhar, and Tuwa Dzong, Claude and His Majesty arrived at Lhalung monastery on 16 June 1906. They were received by the 9^th Peling Sungtrul Tendzin Chokyi Gyeltshen[1]and monks. At the request of His Majesty, Claude stayed at Lhalung for two days. Claude spent two days photographing and discussing diverse topics of interest with His Majesty. From Lhalung, His Majesty accompanied Claude on his journey to the top of Tala Pass (17,900 feet) which was the departure point. After exchanging scarves, His Majesty departed for Bumthang and Claude continued his journey. At the request of His Majesty, Claude sent his vaccinator to Bumthang. After descending the Tala Pass, Claude and his party camped at Sagang and were treated with utmost hospitality by the nomads.

The 9^th Peling Sungtrul Tendzin Chokyi Gyeltshen and monks at Lhalung monastery in Tibet (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Chortens at Lhalung monastery (Photo: J.C. White, 1906)

Marching onwards from Sagang, Claude passed through Nyeru valley and reached Nelung. On the way, Claude came across numerous lakes and expressed his deep concern over the drying up of lakes. At Nelung, despite numerous attempts to save, Claude lost one of his favourite mules by the name Kitty, whom she had served for many years. From Nelung, Claude travelled the Phari-Gyantse road. At Gyantse, Claude visited F.M. Bailey[2] who was then the officiating British Trade Agent and also his assistant political Officer. From Gyantse, Claude returned and arrived at Gangtok on 6^th July 1906 via Chumbi valley, thus ending his second expedition to eastern Bhutan and southern Tibet. Claude made a final expedition to Bhutan in 1907, representing the British government during the coronation of Sir Ugyen Wangchuck as the first king of Bhutan.

 

Bibliography

Aris, M. (1994). The raven crown: the origins of Buddhist monarchy in Bhutan. Chicago: Serindia Publications.

White, J.C. (1909). Sikkim and Bhutan: twenty-one years on the northeast frontier. London: Edward Arnold.

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[1] 9^th Peling Sungtrul was the son of king Ugyen Wangchuck’s sister Yeshi Choden and Jakar Dzongpon Chimey Dorji. The 9^th Sungtrul was the nephew of king Ugyen Wangchuck.

[2] Frederick Marshall Bailey later became the British Political Officer in Sikkim, Tibet and Nepal from 1921-1928 and visited Bhutan in 1922. He succeeded Charles Bell.